As someone who lives alone and who has
spent much of her career freelancing, it’s safe to say that I’m pretty
comfortable in my own company. When it comes to travelling, however, it’s a
different story. I like sharing the experience with someone else, be it a
friend, boyfriend, family member or colleague. I like having someone to share
thoughts and ideas with, someone to put me right when I'm heading down the
street in the wrong direction, someone to fret with when it's 3am and the bus
that's meant to take me from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville is 2 hours late.
I recently stood over the spot Hitler's
bunker used to be – the place in which he spent his last days before taking
his own life. I looked around at all the residential buildings in the area and
thought: 'Jesus, can you imagine waking up every morning and looking out onto this?' Alas, there was no-one to whom I could ask the question, for I
was in Berlin alone. I don't make it a habit to travel this way. I’ve been to
around 20 countries, few of which I visited without some sort of company. As
such, I may not be best placed to issue this advice, but I have a couple of
stories to share that might be useful – and since we need few credentials to
impart advice on the internet, here’s mine…
1. Don't feel like you have to make friends
All the travel experts bang on about how
you’ll meet amazing people and make lifelong friends on your travels – but
sometimes that’s just not true. Granted, locals are usually friendly,
surprising, eye-opening and delightful, but fellow travellers are often
of the single-serving variety. I recently boarded a plane and chose a seat next
to two young women, thinking they would potentially be good to hang out with.
Almost immediately they began to talk 100 words-per-minute about bags and shoes
and shopping, and which shoes to wear while shopping, and which bags are best
to store shoes in when swapping shoes from heels to flats when shopping.
Groaning inwardly, I put on my headphones and turned up the volume, steadfast
in the knowledge that I’d rather be in solitary confinement than spend time
with these two.
I made a few
acquaintances as the trip wore on, but none whom I wanted to become
‘lifelong’ friends with. If the same happens to you, don’t worry about it. Make
as many single-serving friends as you need to, join a tour if you feel lonely
and then go home and be happy in the knowledge that you never have to spend
another hour talking about bags and shoes and shopping with those people
again...
2. When in Rome... don't be an idiot
If you’re in a big party town, go ahead and
go crazy; if you’re at a peaceful retreat then try your hand at pretentious
Pilates – there’s nothing wrong with getting into the spirit of the place that
you’re in, but just don’t be stupid about it. A couple of years ago I was on
the beach in Miami when a green-eyed model specimen of a man came up to me
(green eyes and dimples are my two biggest weakness in life so bear with me
here). After a short conversation, he asked if I wanted to go for a swim. My
British reserve mixed with my Asian conservatism (and the fact that I just felt
a bit pale and flabby next to him) elicited a quick ‘no thank you’. I seldom
dance with strangers let alone swim with them and, as I said here a
while back, I’ve never done the casual thing so I denied his gentle attempts to
persuade me.
Eventually, he looked at me admonishingly and said: ‘Come on!
You’re in Miami!’ Those words triggered something in me. He was right. I was in
Miami for Christ’s sake! I had just come out of a messy divorce and though I
wasn’t about to start doing the casual thing, if
I couldn’t go for a swim with a model type in Miami, then I was too square to
even be there. And, thus, with a warning that it would be ‘just a swim’, I
stepped out of my dress and waded into the warm water with him. A few minutes
in, he began to get tactile and almost immediately I froze up. Gentle
persuasion quickly turned into forcefulness and with his arms locked around me,
I began to panic. ‘Relax,’ he kept telling me. ‘Just relax.’ I tried to push
him away to no avail. My protests grew increasingly panicked until, eventually,
I spotted someone walking towards us. I told him in no uncertain terms: ‘Let me
go or I’ll scream,’ which had the desired effect. I ran out of the water,
gathered up my things and rushed back to the hotel. I don’t think I felt truly
threatened while in the water; it was only when I was back safely that I
realised how shaken up I was. I realised how wrong things could have gone if I
had made that snap decision in a slightly different place at a slightly
different time. I’m by no means saying that anyone who makes a similar decision
is an ‘idiot’ as the title suggests; it’s just a way of saying be careful. Yes, travelling is about releasing inhibitions and having fun,
but just keep your wits about you and don’t do something you’ll regret.
3. ...But do keep an open mind
Having said all of the above, it’s worth
adding that you should keep an open mind (without compromising your safety). Women
in particular employ all sorts of mechanisms for curtailing come-ons. Some walk
around with a permanent scowl, others with headphones and a newspaper. Most are
well practised in avoiding eye contact when a man is so desperately trying to
catch it (yes, boys, we know when you’re doing that). All that armour can form
an unassailable barrier when you’re travelling so start conversations and be
open and approachable. If you’re concerned that someone will read too much into
your interaction then mention a boyfriend or girlfriend early in the
conversation (even if you have to make one up). That won’t always work as a
deterrent, but at least you’re making your intentions clear.
One thing that
travelling will teach you is that people
generally have more depth than you may think (unless they spend hours talking
about bags and shoes and shopping). Take the gay guy whose overly camp
dramatics had me dismiss him as a bleach-blonde, air-headed Mykonos type, but
who turned out to be the son of a diplomat that had lived in seven different
countries, could speak four languages and who was one of the most amusing
people I had met. Or the guy who joined me for a coffee uninvited but who –
instead of the sexually aggressive Italian he seemed on the surface – was a
real gentleman who regaled me with tales of everything from Perito Moreno to
anthropological studies of Polynesian tribes. Be wise but don’t be paranoid.
It’s a thin line, but you’ll figure it out.
4. Watch your snacking
It might just be me but in lieu of company,
it can be tempting to grab a donut in the morning and then a mid-morning coffee
and then a mid-afternoon crepe and of course a nightcap before retiring for the
day. Travelling alone means being on your own schedule. Stopping for snacks is
a great way to break up the day, but don’t overdo it. Travelling is meant to be
indulgent, of course, but try not to go overboard. It’s not good for your
health and you’ll feel worse for it.
5. Travel Light… No, Lighter
I’m not a girly girl. I never wear
jewellery, I hate shopping, I f*cking hate the Twilight films and, as Asian
Woman magazine’s former Beauty Editor can attest to, I
can barely open a lipstick (to be fair, it was one of those dodgy ones you have
to press down and slide open), but I have been
known to take four types of footwear with me on holiday (flip flops for the
beach, flats for walking, heels for parties, and boots for the actual
travelling part). Streamline for God’s sake! I was in Cambodia for a couple of
weeks last year and wore about 10% of the clothes I took. Wash and wear if you
have to, especially on long-term travel. Opt for a backpack over a suitcase if
possible. Travelling alone means there’ll be no-one to watch your luggage and,
trust me, trying to manoeuvre in a bathroom cubicle with a suitcase is just no
fun.
6. Learn the language (yes, even if
'everybody speaks English'!)
I was in Tiergarten Park in Berlin,
watching the Italians lose 4-0 to Spain when it started to pour with rain. The
stranger next to me gallantly offered me his umbrella. I stepped under and
thanked him, after which he asked me a question (in German). I replied with:
“I’m sorry, I speak English.” He tried again and I shook my head. He said,
“Tourist?” I nodded with embarrassment. Usually, I try to pick up a few phrases
of the local language, even if it’s just je ne parlais pas francais in preparation for Paris, but in this case I hadn’t bothered
because apparently ‘everyone speaks English in Berlin’ and since Berliners
aren’t snooty about their language like the Parisians, I figured I’d be okay.
The German
gentleman managed to ask if I was supporting Italy or Spain. When I said Italy,
he pretended to take away the umbrella (since they had beaten Germany in the
previous match) and we laughed: a short exchange that needed no words, but
beyond that, conversation was impossible. I felt pretty ashamed that I couldn’t
even say ‘I don’t speak German’. So the moral of the story is: learn some of
the local language even if your own is widely spoken!
7. And of course: Don’t forget the
practicalities
Let someone know where you are on a
frequent basis and don’t forego the boring stuff like making copies of your
passport, buying insurance and using protection (both the UV type and the more
fun type). Travelling is meant to be liberating, a way to indulge the free
spirit in you, to run wild and free, but people at home care about you so don’t
neglect to tell them where you are and where you’ll be.
Overall, seeing the world is one of the
most exhilarating things you can do. It can change your perspective on life (it
will if you’re doing it right) so if you really
want to go somewhere or you just need some time out, but can’t find someone to
go with... just go.